From the hills above Hillsborough you can see Union Island's jagged peaks across the water, and the distance is short enough that people cross by small boat every week. Yet the line between them is an international border: Carriacou belongs to Grenada, while Union Island, along with Mayreau, Canouan, Bequia and the rest of the northern Grenadines, belongs to St Vincent and the Grenadines. Crossing means leaving one country and entering another, with stamps on both sides.
This guide is for travellers without their own yacht who want to make the hop as foot passengers, either to continue north through the Grenadines or for a short visit. The process is not complicated once you know the order, but it trips people up because it feels like a local boat ride rather than an international journey. Arrangements on this route are informal and changed after Hurricane Beryl hit both islands in 2024, so treat the details below as a framework and confirm the current situation when you arrive.
Two countries, one sea: why the formalities matter
The Grenadines chain was split between two colonial administrations long ago, and the modern border runs between Petite Martinique and Petit St Vincent and between Carriacou and Union Island. Both countries use the Eastern Caribbean dollar, both drive on the left and families on either side are related, so the border can feel invisible. Officially it is anything but. Arriving on Union Island without a Grenadian exit stamp, or leaving without entering properly, can lead to fines, being sent back, or trouble later when you try to depart by air.
For foot passengers the rule of thumb is simple: clear out of Grenada before you board, and clear in to St Vincent and the Grenadines as soon as you land. On Carriacou, departure formalities for passengers are handled by customs and immigration officers in Hillsborough, close to the main jetty. On Union Island, the port of entry is at Clifton, the main village on the eastern side, where immigration and customs offices sit near the harbour and the airstrip. Check opening times on both sides before planning a crossing; offices may close for lunch, at weekends or on public holidays, and outside hours there may be overtime charges or no service at all.
The crossing, step by step
For a foot passenger without a yacht, the usual sequence looks like this:
- Arrange the boat first. Ask at your accommodation, at the Hillsborough jetty or among the boatmen at Windward which boats are making the run and when. Small passenger boats and water taxis cross on some days; there has not always been a fixed public ferry on this leg.
- Agree the price and the drop-off point. Confirm whether the fare is per person or per boat, whether bags cost extra and that the boat will land you at Clifton, where you can clear in, not on a remote beach.
- Clear out in Hillsborough. Take your passport and onward travel details to the immigration and customs offices near the jetty. Expect a departure stamp and possibly a short form. Ask whether any departure fee applies.
- Cross. The trip across the channel in an open boat is relatively short but can be wet and bumpy when the trade winds are up. Wear clothes that can get salty and keep documents in a waterproof pouch.
- Clear in at Clifton. Go straight to immigration and customs on arrival. You may be asked for proof of accommodation, onward travel and funds, as at any entry point.
- Keep your paperwork together. You will need your entry stamp when leaving St Vincent and the Grenadines later, whether by air from Union, Canouan or Argyle on St Vincent, or by boat back south.
Union Island after you land
Expect officers on both sides to ask practical questions: where you are staying, how long you plan to remain and how you intend to leave. A printed or saved booking for your first night on Union Island and some idea of your onward route make the conversation quick. If you are travelling on a passport that needs a visa for St Vincent and the Grenadines, sort it out well before reaching Carriacou, because it cannot be arranged at the jetty.
Clifton is small: a harbour sheltered by a reef, a strip of shops, guesthouses and bars, a market area for fruit and vegetables, and a short airstrip at the edge of the village. To the west, Ashton is the other main settlement, and above both rise the steep volcanic peaks, with Mount Taboi the highest. The island has long been the jumping-off point for the Tobago Cays and for Mayreau, and water taxis and charter boats in Clifton harbour run day trips to both.
Hurricane Beryl made landfall over Carriacou on 1 July 2024 and caused severe damage on Union Island as well, destroying or damaging a large share of homes and businesses. Rebuilding has been under way since, but accommodation, restaurants and transport may be fewer or different from what older reviews describe. Contact guesthouses directly before you go, carry enough cash for a few days and be prepared for limited services. For onward travel north there is a domestic flight network within St Vincent and the Grenadines, plus inter-island boats that have historically linked Union with Mayreau, Canouan and Kingstown; schedules vary, so check them on arrival.
Mistakes that cause trouble at the border
Skipping the exit stamp. Some boatmen will take you across without asking if you have cleared out. That is your problem, not theirs, when you reach Clifton or try to fly home weeks later.
Landing at the wrong place. Being dropped on a beach or at Ashton when the immigration office is in Clifton leaves you technically in the country without having entered it. Insist on Clifton unless you have confirmed otherwise.
Ignoring office hours. Arriving at a closed office on a Sunday afternoon can mean waiting until the next working day, or paying overtime fees where officers are available.
Forgetting the return. If you plan to come back to Carriacou, you must clear out of St Vincent and the Grenadines at Clifton and clear back in to Grenada in Hillsborough. A same-day round trip is possible only if both offices are open at the right times.
Carrying restricted goods. Fresh produce, meat and plants may be subject to agricultural rules on both sides, and anything with commercial quantities can attract duty. Keep shopping to personal amounts.
Relying on cards. Both islands are cash-friendly, and cash machines may be few or out of service. Carry East Caribbean dollars, which are legal tender in both countries.
Alternatives if the small-boat crossing does not suit
The small-boat hop is the most direct route but not the only one. Some travellers join a day charter or a yacht crew heading north, where the captain handles clearance and you travel as part of the crew list; make sure you are properly listed and stamped. Others fly: light aircraft have at times linked Carriacou or Grenada with Union Island, Canouan and St Vincent, and Argyle International Airport on St Vincent connects with larger regional hubs. These options cost more but suit people with heavy luggage, limited time or no appetite for an open-boat crossing.
Timing matters as much as the route. Crossings are easier in the morning before the trade winds build, and on weekdays when government offices on both sides are fully staffed. Around big events, such as Carriacou Regatta in August or Easterval on Union Island at Easter, boats fill up and offices get busy, so allow extra time and book accommodation well ahead on whichever island you are heading to.
A further option is to go the long way round by connecting through St Vincent: fly from Grenada to Argyle, then use the ferry network that runs from Kingstown down through Bequia and the southern islands. That route is slower but brings the larger islands into reach. Whatever route you choose, the formalities principle stays the same: leave one country properly before you arrive in the next.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a ferry from Carriacou to Union Island?
There has not always been a fixed scheduled ferry on this short crossing. Foot passengers often travel by small passenger boats or water taxis that cross on certain days. Ask at the Hillsborough jetty, at Windward or at your guesthouse for current options and expect arrangements to be informal.
Where is immigration on Union Island?
The port of entry for Union Island is at Clifton, the main village and harbour on the island's eastern side, where customs and immigration offices operate near the waterfront and airstrip. Check opening hours in advance, as weekends and holidays may differ from weekdays.
Is a visa needed for St Vincent and the Grenadines?
Many nationalities, including citizens of the UK, the European Union, the United States and Canada, have generally been able to visit St Vincent and the Grenadines without a visa for tourist stays. Rules change and vary by nationality, so confirm with the relevant government authorities before crossing.
Is a day trip from Carriacou to Union Island possible?
It is possible, but you must clear out of Grenada, clear in to St Vincent and the Grenadines, then reverse the process the same day. That depends on boat timing and on four offices being open when you need them, so an overnight stay is usually more relaxed.
What currency is used on Union Island?
Union Island uses the Eastern Caribbean dollar, the same currency as Grenada and Carriacou, so there is no need to change money for the crossing. US dollars are often accepted, but change is usually given in EC dollars. Carry enough cash, as card acceptance can be limited.
